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SUIT YOURSELFMany a talented seamstress balks at the thought of making a jacket. The general thought is that it’s just too hard! Well think again. All of the processes required to make a jacket are simply extensions of dressmaking so drop the dreaded ‘Tailoring’ word and just follow the six ‘P’s’ to quick and easy jackets, made today’s way.
1. Personal Pattern and Fabric SelectionMake life easy, right from the start, by selecting the easiest pattern designs and fabrics. Look for the following easy styles and detailing –
Look for the following no-fail fabrics for your first jacket –
CHOOSE – Medium to dark colours, medium to heavier weave, fabrics with surface texture and interest. AVOID – Lightweight and light coloured, loosely woven and hard-finished fabrics. Synthetics, Corduroy, Velvet and Velveteen. 2. Patient Fitting with No Fear Pattern AlterationsWhatever you do don’t let the thought of pattern alterations dampen or deter your sewing spirit. Commercial patterns are a canvas for you to work on and they are offered in standard sizes as a starting point. Always remember that if you can’t get a pattern to fit straight out of the packet then you are with the other 99% of us and you won’t be able to buy a perfectly fitted garment ‘off the rack’ any easier. All major brand patterns are drafted to fit a perky B cup bust, hourglass figure, approximately 170cm tall. Everything has to start somewhere and this standard is as good a point as any. However once you discover how your figure differs from the standard you will find a consistency running through all major pattern brands. If you have experienced problems with fit then I strongly recommend that you try a McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch pattern and the tissue fitting method.
I usually spend as much time fitting and altering each new pattern design as sewing it the first time. But, after that I can run each altered pattern up with confidence. The simple principle of tissue fitting is – “What you see, is what you do.” Buy the correct size pattern by comparing your ‘high bust’ measurement to the full bust measurement on the back of the envelope. This means that you are taking your chest measurement into consideration without being influenced by your bust cupping. Take the pattern out of the envelope. Cut out all the required pieces. Reinforce all curved areas with ‘Scotch Magic Tape’ placed in small overlapping pieces around the inner curves of the seam allowances. Clip through seam allowances, to tape, at 1.5cm intervals. Pin tissue together, wrong sides facing and simply try on in front of a full-length mirror. Use a hand held mirror to view the back without twisting. Now simply deal with the problems that you can see in the mirror. Starting at the back check back length, back width, sway back. Alter back before looking at the front. Then check bust cupping, bust height, hollow chest, side width, length, pocket and detail positioning. Once you have altered the tissue all the hard work is done. You should still look and fit as you sew but you will just be ‘tweaking’ an already good fit. What you see, is what you do and what you do is what you get!
3. Pedantic Preparation, Cutting and MarkingPreparation If you plan to wash your garment, preshrink fabric and lining in the same way as you intend to finally launder the garment. If you plan to dry-clean your garment simply pre-steam your fabric and lining on your cutting board (cover with a sheet to protect). This will eliminate the possible shrinkage from pressing as you sew. Steam evenly moving in the direction of the grain. Preshrink woven fusibles and fusible knits by dunking in very hot water for 10 minutes and hanging out to air-dry. Cutting Should the fabric be cut ‘with nap’ layout? As a general rule of thumb I cut EVERYTHING with nap. Just in case! So many fabrics have surface interest, weave or texture and many have a soft sueded finish. Pay special attention to the little bits, like collars and pockets, to determine which way they will lie when sewn and turned. Always cut under collars on the bias, in two pieces, with a center back seam. Upper collar must be larger than under collar and facing must be larger than lapel. The amount depends on the weight of your fabric but should be at least 3mm (1/8”). Marking Pin or chalk mark all internal dots and marks i.e. Darts and pockets. Then sew these things first. Note: Learn what the pattern markings mean! Remember the old saying “When in doubt, read the instructions!”
Pattern M4598 has great fitting tips and easy instructions 4. Perfect Fusing and InterfacingPalmer/Pletsch Weft Interfacings In Australia they are called – Armo Weft (heaviest), Whisper Weft (mid-weight), Texture Weft (Light-weight and also perfect for textured fabrics) and Sheer Weft (lightest weight for sheers and silkies). In America (in the same order) they are called – Perfect Fuse Tailor, Perfect Fuse Medium, Perfect Fuse Light and Perfect Fuse Sheer. The light and sheer are 100% polyester and DO NOT require pre-shrinking. The heavy and the mid have a rayon content and DO need to be pre-shrunk. All weft interfacings need steam and pressure to bond to the fabric. Applied with lots of both these interfacings will not only last the life of the garment but will greatly pro-long the wearability of the garment.
5. Precision StitchingThe only secret to successful stitching is precision. Match all notches and dots and ease where the pattern indicates to ease. Place pins horizontally across seams and stitch slowly over them so that the top layer of your work doesn’t work its way forward and ALWAYS press stitched seams before cross joining over them. I always use a slightly longer stitch length than that recommended for a fabric type (this also makes it easier to ‘reverse stitch’ when necessary). I only overlock (serge) seam edges on very ravely fabrics (like the red silk). The interfacing and lining will restrict fraying and protect the fashion fabric.
6. Purposeful PressingAlthough I have left pressing until the end it is the most important section. Pressing can correct poor stitching, reshape stretched fabric and ease away puckers. A myriad of sins can be forgiven with a great shot of steam and good pressing equipment. If your next jacket is the first of many then invest in some great equipment to make your life easy. I just love my steam-generated iron and suction board but a good general steam iron and a cotton pressing cloth will get you going. I can’t however live without a tailor’s ham, a sleeve board and a point presser/clapper for ease and precision. Crisp seams and perfectly turned edges are the trademark of a perfect jacket. Invest in great pressing equipment – This is a Point Press and Clapper Recommended Reading For further information |
