Sew Inspirational

Don’t Trash the Stash

by Sophie Parker, Textile Conservator - Artlab Australia

Let’s face it….we’re all collectors; fabrics, threads, buttons, trimmings. It’s one of the many joys of sewing – THE STASH!

But if you tend to keep your treasures for some time it is definitely well worth your time and effort to prepare and store your stash correctly. Careful preparation is ‘Stash Insurance’ and you can’t buy it from your regular broker, so read on.

Ideal Storage Conditions for Textiles

1. Temperature is constant and moderate in the range 18 C to 22 C
2. Relative humidity is in the moderate range of 45 percent to 55 percent
3. Light is kept to a minimum
4. Protected from pollutants, dust and insects
5. Airborne chemicals that most commonly effect textiles include smoke, oil and acids. Smoke causes staining and discolouration, which are extremely difficult to remove. Textiles in a room with a fire place or where smoking is permitted should be housed in smoke proof containers.
6. Acids are also given off in small quantities by pest strips and some types of plastics. Consequently pest strips should not normally be used inside closed storage areas
7. Remember that starch attracts silver fish

What are the most common types of damage to textiles?

Physical damage is very obvious and includes problems such as:

1. Inappropriate repair of damage
2. Insect attack
3. Damage caused by washing
4. Shrinkage
5. Tears and splits in textiles were they have then folded or creased.

Damage due to chemical deterioration includes:

1. Fading and discolouration because of exposure to UV radiation and high lighting levels
2. Weakening of fibres because of chemical reactions initiated by light and UV radiation
3. Deterioration because of mould growth (mould digests the material it grows on).
4. Damage from pollutants in the storage environment
5. Damage caused by perspiration, blood and other stains

Handling Textiles - Practical steps you can take to minimise damage

1. Keep handling to a minimum
2. Clean hands are very important in reducing soiling transfer. Especially acids and perspiration which cause deterioration
3. Keep hands and nails smooth so they don’t snag
4. Beware of jewelry and watches as they may snag
5. Beware of makeup and moisturizes

When handling textiles

1. Never pick them up by one corner. Always support the weight of the textile evenly
2. Store small pieces on a shelf or in a box
3. Store larger pieces on a cardboard roll if possible
4. Distribute the weight of the fabric as evenly as possible and support heavy areas, such as beading with layers of tissue paper
5. Store velvet by hanging from clip hangers, clipped to the selvages

Cleaning Textiles

Low powered vacuuming
Low powered vacuum suction is a very important technique for the removal of dust that causes deterioration of textiles. Dust can be gritty and cut the fibres. Dust can be acidic, alkaline, sooty or greasy, all of which contribute to deterioration. Dust is mostly made of skin and hair particles which are very attractive to insects and which may in turn eat the textiles substrate. Dust creates a micro climate around itself and creates moisture. The presence of moisture speeds up photo oxidation and other deterioration. Therefore removing the dust reduces the degradation process. The best way to remove dirt and dust from textiles is to use a vacuum brushing technique. This involves lifting dust and grit off the surface with a brush and vacuuming them away so that they can’t resettle on the surface. It is important to make sure that the vacuum cleaner has low suction.

Washing
Washing textiles is an irreversible process. If the dyes bleed, the fabric shrinks or disintegrates this cannot be reversed. It is essential that an appropriate washing solution be used. If you plan to wash or dry clean textiles you should first consult the care instructions on the end of the roll or bolt or test a small piece, cut from the length. Treat textiles initially in the same manner as you intend to care for them after construction.

Know Your Bugs

The Most Common Bad Bugs

Varied Carpet Beetle
Damaging stage: Larvae
Target: Wool, Fur, Skins, Hides, Feathers
Detection: Feeding damage, cast larval skins, adult flying to light

Webbing Clothes Moth
Damaging stage: Larvae
Target: Hair, Feathers, Fur, Wool, Upholstered furniture, Piano felt, Lint
Detection: Feeding holes, hair falling from fur or pelt, matt of fibres under which larvae feed
Comments: Larvae like dark conditions

Silverfish
Damaging stages: Nymphs and Adults
Target: Paper especially glossy types, textiles especially rayons, linen and cotto
Detection: Feeding damage, living adults
Comments: Does not like light

Casemaking Clothes Moths
Damaging stage: larvae
Target: Hair, Hides, Feathers
Detection: Feeding damage, wholes in woolen fabrics, hair clips from pelts or hides, larva carries silken tubes encasing the body while feeding

How to Kill Bugs!

There are two methods to kill bugs and destructive larva -

1. Heat
   Wrap the fabric in a cotton sheet, then wrap in black plastic and seal, put the whole thing in another plastic bag and seal. Place the parcel in the sun for at least 4 hours when the temperature is above 25 degrees.
   
   
2. Freezing
   Wrap fabric in cotton sheeting, place this in a plastic bag, remove as much air as possible and seal. Place in the freezer at -18 degrees or below, leave for one week without opening the freezer. Leave out at room temperature to acclimatize, unwrap the fabric and vacuum.
   

Keeping the Bugs at Bay – Prevention is Better than Cure

SUPPLIERS LIST

Micro Vacuum Attachment Kit

Supplier: Punch with Judy
‘Goldview’ Olympic Highway, The Rock NSW 2655
T: 02 6920 2238  F: 02 6920 2021  E: judy@punchwithjudy.com.au

Supplier: Ausvac
92 Burbridge Road, Hilton SA 5033
T: 08 8234 5037  Cost: Approx $20.00

Insect Traps with and without pheromone baits

Supplier: Garrads Pesticides  T: 08 8374 2288
Cost: “Chekkers” sticky trap pack of 10 is $8.55

“Cockroach Trap” is a sticky trap that will catch all insects that crawl into them. Pack of 5 is $#.30.

Black Carpet Beetle traps with sticky trap and pheromone is $52.65 for a pack of 10.

Shelltox Mini Strips

• Long term exposure may be harmful to humans
• May effect corrosion on metals and change dye colours in some textiles
• Forms an acid in high humidity conditions
• Pest strips may bleed and stain textiles

Use: Place dry infested object in a sealed plastic bag with a Shelltox Strip. Do not allow the strip to be in direct contact with the object. Keep the object in fumigation for the duration of the insect’s egg incubation. I.e. Moth 10 days; Carpet Beetles 18 days; Silverfish 43 days.

Supplier: Supermarkets and Hardware Stores

Permethrin Residual Insecticide

• No known effect on materials. Claimed to be the safest insecticide on the market
• Use: A wettable powder dispensed in water, and is applied as a mist around the bases of storage units and around doors. It may leave a whitish residue.
• Do not apply directly onto collectable objects.

Treat an infected area every 3 – 4 months. Kills insects that cross the sprayed area.

Supplier: Garrads Pesticides  T: 08 8374 2288

Archive Storage Products

Albox Australia Pty Ltd
56 North Terrace, Kent Town SA 5067
T: 08 8362 4811 (local)  T: 1300 555 717 (interstate)
F: 08 8362 4066  E: albox@albox.com.au  W: www.albox.com.au

For further information on conserving and caring for textiles contact:
Artlab Australia (Conserving our Cultural Heritage)
T: 08 8207 7520  www.artlabaustralia.com.au