Sew Inspirational

Button-up!

By John Garrod – Terries Buttons

Credit: Superb fashion buttons and buckles are from Terries Buttons Pty Ltd. Wholesale enquiries or to find your nearest stockist –

E: terriesbuttons@bigpond.com    T: Australia 02 4422 0093

In 2008 buttons are back!

And as the year rolls on they are going from BIG, to BIGGER, to BIGGEST in both size and popularity. The trend, which some thought a flash in the pan, is set to continue with Europe showing more BIG styles for the coming seasons.

The only garments not showing those really big buttons, were showing large NUMBERS of buttons, on catwalks at recent European shows. Suits and jackets have two rows of buttons and plenty of them.

Meanwhile, in style and colour, anything truly beautiful goes.

Fabulous ranges of show-stopping buttons, buckles and belts in high quality full leathers and stunning fashion colours in fake leathers and lizards. See pics 1 & 2 Buttons & Bows and metallic & bejeweled leather buttons & buckles

With the return of buckles and belts, to the waist, the flow-on takes them onto shoes, bags and clothing, in both wovens and knits. The buckle tabs range from about 150mm long to 250mm long. See pic 3. They are imitation leather and can be used on garments and in bag making

From the seas and the trees come ranges of beautiful buttons in shell and coconut. Polished, carved and dyed in all the colours of the rainbow, these are just the style for the return of feminine florals and pastel linen looks. See pic 4. Seas & Trees - Shell & Coconut buttons

And if you are looking for colour the brighter 4-hole buttons are the ever popular Corozo Nut buttons which are made from the nut of the South American Tagua palm tree. The use of this product offers a sustainable use of forest products.

***The forests will be saved from being converted to ‘hamburger farms’ if we use this fabulous material. See pic 5. Corozo Nut buttons

Glitter and shimmer was still very strong at the European shows and diamonds are still a girl's best friend!  See pic 6. Glitter & shimmer buttons

There was strong evidence, at the shows, of more colour than we have seen in a long time. Both on the catwalks and in the streets dreamy colours were everywhere, but also strong vibrant colours. 

The most dominant colours, showing consistently, were the turquoises and teals, with brown, oranges and lemons. Is it the 1970's all over again?

Buttons and Buttonholes

Buttonholes often daunt even the most experienced seamstress, but practice is the simple key to success.

Look up your particular sewing machine handbook to follow the step-by-step guide to automatic machine buttonholes and then practice on the same interfaced fabric as your garment.

The tips I am going to give you here are on positioning, sizing and cutting buttonholes.

Positioning – Always try to start with a buttonhole at the level of bust point and at your waist. Then distribute the other buttonholes proportionately either side of these two points. This positioning will eliminate any gaping.

Sizing – It is very important to make your buttonholes the perfect length. You want the hole to be large enough for the button to pass through easily and small enough to keep the garment securely closed and the button from popping. The general ‘rule-of-thumb’ is that the buttonhole is the diameter of the button plus 3mm. Round or highly decorative buttons often require a little more length. Always test the length on a sample before sewing on the garment.

With the return of REALLY BIG BUTTONS the length of the accompanying buttonhole often compromises the integrity and stability of the garment. The answer is the return of the REALLY BIG PRESS-STUD! See pic 7. Large ‘Aged’ Brass Press-studs & Fabric Covered Press-studs

Cutting – I just love my buttonhole chisel and block, which works like a small guillotine blade and never cuts the ends or the threads. See pic 8. Bernina buttonhole chisel & block

Buttons – ALWAYS sew buttons on with a thread shank (even if they already have their own in-built shank).

Snap to It!

Can’t find the right coloured press-stud?

Press-studs traditionally come in a limited number of colours – silver, black and ‘aged’ brass.

But don’t be put off. Take a tip from the Couturiers and cover the ones you have.

1. Using left over scraps, from your garment, silk organza or lining, cut the desired number of discs from the fabric. Cut the discs approximately 5mm larger than the press-studs diameter.
2. Use a coin to obtain a nice circle
   TIP: If the fabric is hard to draw on you can use a drink bottle lid to gain the shape. Simply tap the mouth of the drink bottle lid on a stamp pad and then press it on the fabric. This will leave a perfect mark for you to cut around. (Remember to cut the dyed section away so you are not covered in ink!)
3. Take a very fine needle and thread it with double thread. Tie a knot in the end and sew a small running stitch around the outer edge of the fabric circle, approx 3mm from the edge.
4. Place each side of the press-stud in the centre of a fabric circle, on the wrong side, and draw up the gathering threads.
5. Pull each thread firmly and stitch across the back of the press-stud, from one side to another. Continue the stitching until each side of the press-stud has a fabric covering and is free of wrinkles.
6. Tie each side off securely.
7. With your fingers, press the raw edges firmly making sure that the prong of the press-stud is sitting proud, on the top part of the press-stud and poke a small hole through the fabric on the recessed side, of the lower part, of the press-stud.
8. Attach the press-stud in the usual manner.

See pic 7. Large ‘Aged’ Brass Press-studs & Fabric Covered Press-studs

The covered press-studs shown here have been commercially covered with heat moulded lining fabric. They are unavailable to the home sewing market and the ‘old way’ featured above is still a ‘great way’ to achieve the same professional finish.