Sew Inspirational Issue 5 |

Sew your First Unstructured Bra In Pearl Satin and Lace

by Jill Bradshaw of Booby Traps Lingerie

You CAN sew your own beautiful bras and lingerie – the BOOBY TRAPS WAY!

A gem in the Booby Traps collection, this bra is an unstructured, wired bra. This bra suits ladies who like to wear an under wired bra and is especially suitable for women who have a protruding rib cage, or the short waisted who find the frame (extra section under the cups) `digs’ into the diaphragm, rolls under or flips up, making it uncomfortable.

Answer: Eliminate the frame, eliminate the problem!

Unstructured means the bra has no frame, just bra back sections, joined to bra cups, held together by a small centre front panel. Bra wires add support, shape and hold the cups in place.

If you haven’t tried bra making, then this is the time to start with one of the easiest styles to construct.

Pattern
Booby Traps pattern B002. Available in two sizes:
Standard (8, 10, 12, 14 – A to DD)
Medium (16, 18, A to DD; 20, 22 B to DD). See photo 1 starting after completed bra photo.

A similar style pattern is available in Kwik Sew:
Pattern 2101, sizes 10, 12, 14, A to D cup; 16, B to DD

Fabric
We used a Booby Traps Pearl Bra and knickers kit. These kits contain all the required fabrics and notions. See photo 2.

If not using a kit
Requirements for size 12 bra:

30cm (12in) square Pearl satin Lycra�
80cm (7/8yd) stretch lace, minimum 13mm (1/2in) wide
1m x 10mm (1 1/8yd x 3/8in) bra facing elastic
1m x 12mm (1 1/8yd x 1/2in) bra strap elastic
2 rings & 2 slide adjustors
70cm (3/4yd) wire casing (channelling)
1 double hook-and-eye closure tab, 2 hooks wide.(Cut 2)
1 bow or motif
1 pair bra wires of required size
Ballpoint machine needle size 80
Good quality polyester thread
Pattern-trace fabric – this product allows you to fit the bra before cutting the fabric

Preparation
As always, time taken with these steps, as well as accuracy in tracing and cutting, will make for straight forward, quick, simple and enjoyable bra making.

Measuring

1. Measure yourself and decide on your starting size. Booby Traps patterns have a size and measurement chart on the inside of the cover page. The bra you are wearing at the moment is often a good guide, particularly if you have been professionally fitted.
2. Once you have decided on the size trace the upper and lower cup then sew this together with a tacking stitch. Use this toile to fit against yourself over the bra you are wearing. This will give you some idea of the fit.

Fitting the basted cup pattern pieces
Check the following areas:

The length along the upper cup and the strap attachment position
The curve of the cup
The depth of the lower cup (volume)
If you are not satisfied that this is right for you, then try other size cups and choose the one that needs the least alteration. Now you can proceed to the next step.

Tracing your pattern

3. Trace the centre-front panel on a single layer of tracing fabric, then fold the tracing fabric double before tracing all the remaining sections - bra back, upper cup and lower cup. Transfer all the markings, such as the lines of greatest stretch, any grain lines and notches. You should have seven traced pattern pieces in total.
4. Cut out all sections then lay them out on a flat surface and label them. Make sure you write on the correct side of each section eg left upper cup, right upper cup, left lower cup etc. It’s a good idea to write your name, size and date on each section too. See photo 3.

Cutting out your fabrics

5. From the stretch lace cut the following; upper cups, lower cups and centre front.

Ignore the `greatest stretch` guide when the lace has a decorative edge. Place the upper edge of your bra cups, and the lower edge of the centre-front section along the scalloped edge of the lace.

Cut one cup first, then flip this piece over and use as the pattern for the second cup. This way you can match up the design in the lace, and the scallop edge. See photo 4.

6. From the satin, cut the following; lower cups, centre front, bra backs. See photo 5.

NOTE:
When cutting fabrics for a bra, don’t forget to double check that you have placed all sections with the ‘greatest degree of stretch’ as outlined in the instructions of the pattern you are using.

HINT:
It is a good idea to cut all your fabrics as a single layer. This way you can be assured of having grain or stretch lines accurate without fabric ‘slipping’ or moving. You can also be very mean with the expensive elastane (spandex) materials used for bra making.
Remember - It doesn’t need a lot more to make a second bra!

TIP:
When cutting notches make sure you cut outwards into the bulk of the fabric. Most bra patterns have a 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance and a nick into the pattern piece may mean you have a hole in your bra cup! See photo 6.

7. Now you have your bra cut out, lay it out on the table like a jigsaw puzzle, as it will look when it is finished.

Work from this layout removing one section at a time to sew and placing back in the same spot when sewn.

This is a good habit to get into as it is too easy to make mistakes. Bra cups look very similar the correct way up, or upside down. However they don’t fit the same and you’ll probably never work out why! See photo 7.

Sewing your bra

8. Most bra patterns cater for 6mm seam allowances throughout – check pattern instructions.

9. Although using stretch fabrics we can use straight stitching on most seams. Everything we sew on a bra is stitched a second time, which adds strength.

So that we are not changing machine settings too often we sew all the first seams on each section, then all the topstitching.
(See notes on topstitching).

Make a note of the stitch settings you are using to achieve continuity throughout your garment.

Cups First

10. Join upper and lower cup sections and lining sections.

Turn the lace upper cup section down onto the lower cup so right sides are together.

Pin at the starting point, finishing point and notch. Pin vertically so pins are pointing towards the seam line. Sew. See photo 8.

Place this section back onto your layout puzzle and place the satin lower cup (lining) on top with the right side of fabric facing up (wrong side down) onto wrong side of lace upper cup. Stitch again over the previous seam to attach the satin lining. See photo 9.

Grade seam allowances. Trim away the lace seam allowance to eliminate some of the bulk. See photo 10.

Repeat for second cup. Topstitch seams.

Centre front

11. Place the centre-front satin section on top of the centre-front lace section, both right sides facing up. Stitch across upper edge, trim away satin seam allowance and turn satin to underside. Machine baste (tack) along each side from upper to lower edge to hold together. Now treat as one piece. See photo 11.

Join the centre-front to cups making sure upper edges are even. See photo 12.

Bra backs

12. Attach elastic to lower edge of bra backs. Your pattern will give you suggested elastic lengths.

Refer to techniques for applying elastic for the correct sequence of this step. See photos 21, 22 and 23.

13. Attach bra backs to bra cups. Using a straight stitch, sew from the underarm point around curve to notch.

Continue stitching right around bra cup, around the raw lower edge, then fold the centre front section into the cup and continue stitching to the upper edge of bra.

Attach elastic to the upper edge of bra back /underarm area leaving 2cm (3/4in) of elastic extending above front edge of bra. This is for attaching the ring to hold the bra strap. After the first row of stitching (zigzag) is complete, thread the ring over the extended end of elastic, fold elastic to back and stitch across securing in place. See photo 13.

Now turn the elastic to the wrong side of bra exposing the scallop edge and topstitch in place.

Attach bra wire casing

14. To make this stage easier change upper thread to a contrast colour and machine baste around inside of bra cup, turning the seam allowance on the previous row of stitching up into cup. Stitch along the centre of the seam allowance.

Place the wire casing over this seam. Lengthen the stitch to approximately 3.5. Begin stitching at underarm edge on right cup, and centre front of left cup. Use previous stitching as a guide to line up the edge of the casing. Sew just inside the outside edge of the casing. You may need to practice on a scrap to work out the easiest way for you to do this. I find a blind hemming foot No 5, or edge stitch foot No10 (on a Bernina machine) makes life easy. You will need to move your needle position using these feet, but also to get the stitching in the desired spot. Sew around the outside edge of casing first, reduce the stitch length, then sew across the end, and reverse and forward over end to strengthen, before continuing to stitch around the inside edge of the casing. Leave this casing end unstitched to slip wires in and secure after your bra is complete. See photo 14.

Attaching bra straps

15. Straps attach around curve on bra back to centre back. Before sewing check the width of the hook-and-eye closure against the bra back fabric and adjust if necessary, trimming any excess fabric from top edge of bra back. See photo 15.

16. With the edges matching and right side facing up, place the upper edge of strap over the upper edge of the Lycra� satin fabric.

Sew with one row of topstitching near the lower edge of strap elastic. Trim fabric away from behind. See photo 16.

17. Thread loose end of each strap through a slide adjustor, up then down, leaving a loop. Thread the elastic through the ring at the bra front; from front to back. See photo 17.

Make a second loop from back to front through the slide. See photo 18.

Lay your bra down on the table, this time with the right side towards the table top. The hooks attach to the right-hand side and eyes to the left bra back. Sew with metal hooks and eyes facing up, and stitch using a zigzag stitch W – 3, L – 1.5. The hook section folds over and encases the raw edge of the bra back fabric. The eye section has a double fabric which opens and encases the bra back fabric. You will need to stitch around three sides of the hook and eye tabs.

NOTE:
If your tabs are sealed at the edges, you will only need to sew a small area at sides and across the joining position. As there is very little room for sewing you will need to move the needle position to the left. You may find you have another presser foot to make this easier. See photo 19.

18. Sew bow to the centre front of your bra as the finishing touch. Use a zig/zag stitch W – 1 to 2, L – 0. (see photo 1)

The finishing touch

19. Sew the bow or motif to the centre front of your bra using a zigzag stitch W – 1 to 2, L – 0. See photo 20.

THE SECRET TO SUCCESSFUL ELASTIC APPLICATION
It is wise to avoid sewing onto elastic when it is stretched. Lingerie elastics tend to be soft and will often stay stretched when sewn that way. This will result in loss of elasticity and a loose, floppy looking edge to your garment.

The secret is not to stitch into the elastic while it is stretched. If you have made knickers and never had any trouble with elastic application, then don’t try to change your technique, however if you have never had success with this then I suggest your try our ‘stretch and relax’ technique. You will need your flat sewing table on your machine. The free arm will not allow enough area to make this successful.

Use very few pins. Fold elastic in half lengthwise and pin mark the middle, do the same with the garment, match these pins together removing one and pin the other through the two layers. In longer sections your may wish to pin mark in quarters.

Sew the elastic in two stages

Stage 1

Place right side of elastic to the right side of garment, straight edges together. The soft fuzzy side of the elastic is the wrong side. It will be facing you, and when finished will be against your body.
Stitch using a narrow zigzag: W – 1.5, L – 2.5. Needle position - half left.
Stitching should be close to the fancy scallop edge of the elastic. See photo 21.
The elastic will need to be stretched to fit the garment.
Stretch elastic only enough to have the raw edges together and sitting flat on your machine table.
With your left hand press firmly down onto the elastic and fabric keeping a tension but letting the elastic relax as it reaches the needle. The machine should be allowed to ‘feed’ the fabric. The fabric will gather underneath the elastic rather then stretching the elastic to fit the fabric.
Apply all the elastics with this first row of zigzag. Don’t proceed until you are happy with the results. It is easy to unpick this stitching and repeat if necessary.
Trim the bra fabric away from behind the elastic. See photo 22.

Stage 2
Turn all elastic to the wrong side exposing the scallop edge. Topstitch using a 3-step zigzag stitch W – 5 to 6, L – approx 1.5. See photo 23.

Suggested settings for topstitching - See photo 24.

All stitches shown here have width 5.
Stitch on left is length 1. If stitching is too close together it tends to stretch the fabric resulting with an uneven finish. When topstitching near a seam (eg cup seam) never sew over the seam line, only up to the seam line.
Centre row of stitching, length 2.5. I think this is too long and not pleasing to the eye.
Stitching on the right is length 1.5. Looks good.
These settings are on my machine. You will need to experiment and choose the way you like it.

HINT

For trimming away fabrics from behind elastics Duckbill scissors are ideal.

The wide ‘bill’ separates the layers and makes it easy to trim closely and neatly.

They are a very good investment. See photo 22.

Patterns, kits, underwires, haberdashery, fabrics and lace are all available from:
Booby Traps
PO Box 319, Newport Beach NSW 2106 Australia

To visit the shop, phone first to make an appointment:
Shop 2, 49 Elanora Road, Elanora Heights NSW 2101
Phone (02) 9913 3966 Fax (02) 9918 0209
Email: info@boobytraps.com.au Website: www.boobytraps.com.au
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