 |
|
Needles - A sewing machine essentialby Kerrie HaySewing needles have been used since the Stone Age when they were first made from bone, shells or thorns. As the centuries rolled by needles were hand-crafted from various metals including iron, bronze, gold and silver. But it was during the Middle Ages that needle making became a recognized trade and industry. At this time needles for hand sewing were made from lengths of bronze wire. The eye of the needle was flattened and a hole was driven through this to create the eye, then finally the point of the needle was filed down to enable it to pass through fabric.Today, even though the needle is one of the smallest parts of a sewing machine, it has the power to affect the quality and effectiveness of every stitch you sew. The machine is often blamed for bad performance when in fact, nine times out of ten, the problem is due to the wrong choice of needle or because the needle has not been replaced regularly. Sewers often make the fatal mistake of not replacing a needle until it breaks. They often remove it from the machine, only to change the type of needle and put it back in the packet until they want to use that type again. When this happens you have no idea which needles are used or unused. FACT: Needles should be changed at least every 4-6 hours of continuous sewing or as a ‘rule of thumb’ after every new garment. The needle is the most inexpensive part of the sewing machine but it is one of the most crucial for allowing the machine to perform to its best. FICTION: People have been known to sew through sandpaper thinking that they will extend the lifespan of their needle by making it sharper. The only thing this does do is keep your sewing machine mechanic in business as it distributes small sand particles into the workings of the machine and creates all kinds of trouble. A good indication that a needle needs changing is the sound that it makes when sewing. If the needle is blunt or burred you will hear a ‘popping’ sound as the needle tries to penetrate the fabric. Alternatively, this sound can also be heard when using a brand new needle and sewing ‘microfibre’ fabrics. Man-made microfibres are very fine, densely woven fabrics and they need a fine, sharp needle to penetrate through. This is where the Jeans #70 or #80 comes in very handy as they are a true sharp needle, even though people think that they are only to be used on denim. When buying needles you have a few things to consider:
For the best quality sewing machine needles you can’t go past BERNINA needles made with Swiss precision and quality by Bachmanns. They are the result of decades of experience in the needle sector. Since 1924, together with Bernina International AG, Bachmanns have been constantly striving to enhance their product, thereby ensuring that original BERNINA needles are able to meet the high demands of the latest generations of machines. For more information on Bachmann needles visit www.flb.ch Universal Needles This general purpose needle has a slightly rounded point and is most commonly used for synthetic woven fabrics and natural fibres. It also works well for imitation suede’s and leather materials. Ballpoint Needles This needle is designed for knit fabrics, jersey and interlocks. The tip of the needle is more rounded than the universal needle and is designed to push the fibres apart rather than cutting through them, preventing the knit fabric from laddering or running. Ballpoint needles can be used for almost any knit fabric technique - including seaming, attaching ribbing, and hemming on the sewing machine or the Overlocker. Stretch Needles A Stretch needle is designed especially for two-way stretch knits, Lycra, power net, silk jersey, spandex and other highly elasticised fabrics. A stretch needle has a more rounded point than a universal needle, but has the extra advantage of being coated with a blue coloured, anti-cling product, that helps prevent skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Jeans Needles A Jeans needle is suited to sewing denim, heavy twill and other densely woven fabrics, such as canvas and linen. The Jeans needle has a very sharp point and a stronger shaft to resist needle deflection and is less prone to flex, bend or break. It gives a straighter stitch on thicker fabrics and is therefore a good choice for situations where perfect straight stitching is the goal, such as top-stitching. The Jeans needle has many hidden talents as the #70 Jeans needle is also wonderful when working with very fine, delicate fabrics, such as silk and in heirloom sewing for attaching entreadeau and lace. Microtex / Sharp Needles The Microtex needle has a thin shaft and a sharp point designed for stitching tightly woven fabrics, especially microfibres. It also works well when you need quality edgestitching and topstitching. This needle is often identified with a purple marking at the base of the shaft. Quilting Needles The Quilting needle has a long, tapered, sharp point that is made to stitch fine cottons and works especially well when stitching through multiple layers such as intersecting seams in patchwork. Embroidery Needles A special scarf on the back of the Embroidery needle, combined with a large eye, helps prevent machine embroidery threads from shredding and breaking during the machine embroidery process. This needle works especially well with delicate threads such as rayon. Metafil Needles These needles are similar to the embroidery needle with a large eye and deep groove. Metafil, on the other hand, are made of a special heat resistant alloy and have a friction-reducing coating around the eye. This special feature makes them suitable for sewing a range of difficult threads such as metallic threads with a core thread running through the centre and other man-made fibres such as polyester, acrylic and nylon. Cordonnet Needles This needle is often known as the topstitching needle as it has an extra large eye and a sharp point making it the perfect needle for topstitching with heavy thread as well as decorative stitching with heavy specialty threads. The large groove accommodates heavy top stitching thread such as Cordonnet used for jeans. Leather Needles The leather needle has a cutting point and is used for sewing real leather and suede’s. It is often referred to as a ‘chisel point’ needle as the point resembles and acts as a chisel in motion. This needle has been designed to cut as it penetrates and the thicker the leather the larger the needle needs to be so that heavy sewing threads and topstitching threads can be used for added strength and durability. The large groove in the needle shaft is designed to accommodate these particularly thick threads with ease. A Leather needle should never be used on textiles as it will cut through the fibres, causing holes and tears. It should also not be used on imitation suede and leather fabrics. |
|
|
Essential Sewing Machine CareEnsuring that your sewing machines run smoothly will minimise frustration in the classroom both for yourself and your students, as well as giving them the best chance of success. Here are some easy maintenance tips to keep your machines humming along: Weekly care:
What students need to know
Monthly maintenance
|
|
|
Shows Your True Colours, Naturally With Silk-Finish Multi CottonColour is instrumental in so many things, including decorative works created by enthusiasts of sewing, quilting and embroidery. It is colour that lends sophistication, depth, emotion and aura to any creation. Mettler® now takes this essential element to a new level with the new Silk-Finish Multi thread. In addition to the truly exceptional and already highly appreciated Silk-Finish cotton solid colourthread, Mettler® is launching Silk-Finish Multi thread, a new and inspiring collection of multi colour combinations. This new thread variation will be sold in 54 colours in 100 m spools and 36 colours in 457 m spools. The extensive palette of Silk-Finish Multi will give sewing enthusiasts a whole new freedom – as all 54 colour combinations harmonize perfectly with the solid colour Silk-Finish threads, making it easy to inspire creativity. The single tints of each colour combination have an average repeat of 3 ½ inches so that each shade within the blend stands out, making Silk-Finish Multi the ideal thread for both contemporary motifs and traditional quilting patterns. This high-quality thread, made of double mercerized long-staple Egyptian cotton, is versatile for use on both delicate and sturdy materials, to the delight of sewers, quilters and embroiderers everywhere. In terms of quality, Silk-Finish Multi is a natural continuation of the traditional Mettler approach. Leading processing technologies produce a consistently smooth, fuzz-free sewing thread that will not shrink in the wash. Moreover, Silk-Finish Multi complies with all ecological standards. To download Silk-Finish Multi brochure click here. |