Sew Inspirational

Learning to Sew – Part 1

Sewing IS fun and the secret is easy – take it one step at a time.

Readers have written and asked us to include sewing tips and articles for the beginner, so taking this on board and listening to my very own advice, I decided to take it one step at a time and start from the very beginning.

The very first lesson however is– not everyone is born to sew! Not everyone will want to and more importantly not everyone can do it well. Although the steps to a finished garment are sequential and repetitive the initial requirements for sewing success are desire, enthusiasm, vision, creativity and attention to detail.

I have three children; they all grew up being encouraged to play with the button jar, make felt animals and cross-stitch gingham and at 14, 15 and 16 can definitely all go out into the world capable of taking up a hem and sewing on a button. But only one (Katie - the middle one) has the same fire in her eyes when we discover a new fabric haunt or look through new designs.

So Where Did We Start?

We started with a chat, to- A: set the ground rules and B: find out the expectations.

I wanted to get across that a general, rounded knowledge of all things sewing, would result in a great result. Katie just wanted to SEW!

So very quickly I changed tack and controlled the urge to teach her everything that was in my head and settled on the following:

Ten Things Every Sewer Needs To Know

1. Find or create a sewing place.
2. Learn about the tools of trade. Find out as much as you can about new and improved haberdashery, interfacings, fabrics, machines.
3. Study the pattern catalogues. They are filled with a wealth of useful information and patterns for specific body types.
4. Buy the right pattern size.
5. Learn what the back of a pattern envelope can tell you and when you buy a pattern read the whole guidesheet, before you start.
6. Learn sewing terminology.
7. Buy the best quality you can afford.
8. Start early and begin with achievable projects.
9. Sew things that you’ll love to wear.
10. Repeat each learning experience.

1. The Sewing Space

• Good lighting is essential. The light on the machine is not enough. Natural light is fabulous, cool halogen down lighting is great and a table mounted cool spot is a bonus. Try to position your work so that there is no shadowing on your work area. The more light the merrier.
• Sewing bench or table at the correct height for your height and/or an adjustable height chair.
• Pressing station – Pressing is as important to the professional look of your garment as any sewing technique you will master. Keep your ironing board and iron as handy as possible whilst sewing. Each construction detail should be pressed, after it is stitched, prior to proceeding to the next step. Steam pressing is necessary on almost all fabrics. Always keep your iron spotlessly clean and topped with clean water. Photo 1 at top
  
• Storage and organization – You can’t sew in a mess. Remember a place for everything and everything in its place. When you finish the days activity always tidy up, put everything in it’s place, pick up the pins, iron and hang up the ‘work in progress’, empty the iron and clean and cover your machine. You will be very pleased when you come back for the next session. Photo 2 from top
  

2. Tools of Trade - Beginner Must Haves

• A basic sewing machine with great tension and a fabulous buttonhole will take you from learner to couture. Anything extra can be added as your interests and other creative pursuits develop. Photo 3 from top
  
• Ironing board and a good steam iron.
• Dressmaking Shears – Bent handled shears 15 – 20cm long. The bent handles permit the blades to rest flat on the cutting surface, ensuring an accurate cutting line.
• Small Scissors - straight handled scissors with sharp points, 8 – 15cm long for light cutting, trimming, grading and clipping threads.
  (This is the moment when you casually mention that the punishment for using dressmaking scissors for anything other than fabric and thread is decapitation!)
• Gridded cardboard cutting table or fold-out gridded cutting board. Cardboard allows you to pin into the board and the gridded surface makes it easier to lay up fabric and patterns on-grain. Either can be folded and stored out of the way when not in use. Photo 4 from top
  
• Marking chalk or chalk wheel. Chalk comes in several colours. White and pink will mark almost everything and brush away later, but always test on a scrap.
• Sharp, long, plastic headed dressmaking pins for most jobs.
• Fine lace pins for delicate fabrics.
• Needles and threads – These two items should be considered together. The type and weight of fabric will determine your choice. Keep a variety of sewing machine and hand needles and always buy the best quality thread. Photo 5 from top
  
• And last, but not least a sturdy unpicker. No matter how good you become you will always have a close relationship with your unpicker!

3. The Catalogue

What a wealth of information each pattern catalogue, pattern envelope, guidesheet and pattern tissue contains. You will be light years ahead if you learn to read, before you start to sew. Photo 6 from top

Each catalogue offers –

• A wide selection of styles
• Different lifestyle categories, accessories, dolls, toys, costumes, gifts and homewears
• Designs for women, men, girls, boys, babies and pets
• An explanation of the different sizings and groups in the back of the book. They include Misses, Women’s, Half-Size, Petite
• A metric / imperial conversion chart
• The meterage / yardage requirement chart for different width fabrics

4. Pattern Sizing

Begin by discarding any assumptions you may have about what size you wear. Then think about the last time you went clothes shopping. Did every garment in “your” size fit you? Of course not! Standard body measurements vary from one garment manufacturer to another. And the ones used by your favorite ready-to-wear brands may not correspond to other ready-to-wear brands or to the pattern industry’s standard body measurements.

But the good news is that within the sewing industry all the brands, listed above, use the same set of standard body measurements. Once you have determined your pattern size, it will be consistent, regardless of pattern brand.

Good Fit Begins with Good Body Measurements

Measure and Compare:
The way to determine pattern size is to take accurate body measurements, then compare them with the pattern industry standards. The following illustration and chart will take you, step by step, through this process.

Be prepared for a possible shock: In some cases, your pattern size may be one or two sizes larger than the one you are accustomed to in ready-to-wear. But PLEASE don’t let preconceived ideas stand in the way of good fit. Who’s to know what pattern size you use? There certainly won’t be any size labels in your finished garments!

Be aware too, that only a lucky few are the same size their whole life. With age comes wisdom…..and changing body contours. It’s a good idea to retake your measurements every six months.

HINT: I keep a record of size, weight, pattern alterations, date and a swatch of the fabric I am making, in every pattern I work on. When I take the pattern out to use again, at a later date, I have a pretty good idea if it will still fit ‘that day’s’ body or if I need to tissue fit again.

How to Measure Measure over comfortable undergarments. Hold the tape measure snug, but not tight. Tie narrow elastic around the waist. Bend and stretch until it settles at the natural waistline. Record your measurements on the chart below.

How to use Measurements to Determine Size
The measurement worksheet provides an easy way to determine your pattern sizes. I say “sizes” because you may find that your dress or jacket size is different from your skirt or pant size. Follow these instructions to fill in the worksheet.

Step 1: Your Body Measurements
Enter your personal body measurements in the appropriate spaces in the first blank column.

Step 2: Pattern Standards
Turn to the Patter Industry Standards chart. Find the standard measurements that are closest to your personal measurements bust, waist and hip. Enter each measurement and its corresponding pattern size (which will be your preliminary pattern size) in the appropriate spaces in the next two columns. If you fall between two sizes, write them both down. For example, if your bust measures 95cm, the closest standard measurement is 96,5cm, which gives you size 16 as a preliminary size. If your bust measures 94cm, your preliminary pattern size options are size 14 ( a 91.5cm bust) or a size 16 (a 96.5cm bust).

Step 3: Final Pattern Size
The Bust Measurement determines final pattern size for tops, dresses, jackets and coats.

There is however an exception.

Patterns are drafted for a B-cup figure. If your bra cup size is larger than a B, it will affect the way the pattern fits. Use your Measurement Worksheet to determine your cup size. Subtract your High Bust measurement from your Bust measurement.

Here’s what the difference means:

• Less than 6cm: You’re an A or B cup.
• 6 – 7.5cm: You’re a C cup
• 9 – 10cm: You’re a D cup
• 10cm or more: You’re larger than a D cup

If you are a B cup or smaller, use your Bust measurement to determine your final pattern size.

If you are a C cup or larger, match your High Bust measurement to the Bust measurement of the Pattern Industry Standards Chart to determine your final pattern size. This will ensure good fit in those hard to adjust areas – shoulders, neckline, chest and upper back.

The Waist Measurement determines final pattern size for skirts that are not fitted in the hip area.

The Hip Measurement determines the final pattern size for pants and most skirts.

Perfect Personal Fit

Even after all these measurements you may find that you vary from the closest standard pattern size. Don’t worry because this is one of the reasons that the garments that you make will look so much better than the ones you can buy….you can learn to fit yourself perfectly!

TIPS:

If you fall between sizes here are a few factors to consider:

• Bone structure. If you’re small boned, choose the smaller size; if large boned, choose the larger size.
• Fitting preference. If you like a close fit, choose the smaller size; if you prefer a loose fit, go for the larger one.
• Fashion silhouette. The more closely fitted the silhouette, the safer you are in choosing the larger size.

And so, with Lesson 1, under her belt, Katie had found her footing in the sewing room, put together her own sewing box, determined her pattern size and was bursting at the seams for the next Saturday to come.

I hope that this series of articles will inspire you to share your passion and teach someone you know to sew. It’s a skill that lasts a lifetime.

Join me again in next issue for Part 2 – May 2009.

For a great little beginner text, try ‘Mother Pletsch’s Painless Sewing’ by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch. Palmer/Pletsch publications available in Australia and New Zealand through McCall’s Pattern Service Aust.
Web: www.patternsplus.com.au  Email: mccalls@mccalls.com.au