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Recovering with SlipsAdding a slip cover is a great way to give a bright new look to a tired chair and it’s far easier than re-upholstering. The process of making a slip cover is basically the same for a variety of shapes. Choose a fabric that is sturdy, evenly woven and washable. Remember that one of the great advantages of slip covers is that you can wash them. It is therefore advisable to wash and pre-shrink your fabric. Two-seater sofas take approximately 11 metres of fabric and a simple armchair about 5 metres (more fabric needed to match patterns). A plain fabric is easier to deal with and eliminates the eternal pattern-matching problem. Try a plain colour for your first project and consider designer touches with piping or braids. Piping defines the lines and shapes and gives strength to areas such as arms and seat cushions. Tip: Approximately 6.5 metres of piping can be made from just 25cm of 122cm wide fabric. The following instructions are for a chair but you can use the same ideas and techniques to cover a sofa. 
To make the pattern Study the chair carefully. The original upholsterer has already done the hard thinking for you. There are two alternatives: you can measure all the sections and transfer the measurements to cheap trial fabric or an old sheet (see Diagram 1), or you can just lay the trial fabric over each section and trace off each piece. (see Diagram 2 to right) Remember to add 2.5cm seam allowances, mark the direction of the grain, note top and bottom and label each piece. If the chair has a removable cushion, like the one pictured, deal with it separately. If the cushion has lost its original bounce, you might like to fill any dips with cushion fill and add a fresh layer of upholstery foam to either side before re-covering. (For full instructions on covering walled cushions refer to our Summer 2008 issue or click here. It is well worth the extra time to make up the slip cover in a trial fabric first and, as with a good dress, several fittings along the way will ensure a perfect fit in the end. HINTSWhen working with patterned fabric, the pattern on the arms of the chair should run in line with the centre back, this should in turn be in line with the seat. (see Pics 3 & 4 below)
When working with velvets or corduroy, the pile must always run down the chair. Add extra fabric for the tuck-in, the part of the fabric that runs between the seat and the inside back and helps to keep the cover in place. Covers will stay put perfectly if the chair incorporates a separate seat cushion that can push down into the seat and hold everything securely. HERE’S HOWWorking with one section at a time, pin trial fabric to the chair and mark the shape in pencil. Remove and add 2.5cm seam allowances all around. Place back in position to check the fit and mark the grain line. (see diagrams 5 to 9) Pin all the pieces together and have another fitting. Sewing is usually easier if you follow this order. Sew the outer back to the inside back; the inside back to the seat; the seat to the lower front panel; the seat to the arms along the inside edge; the inside arm to the outside arm; the front of the arms between the inner and outer arms; the end of the arm pieces to the back and inside back; then attach the bottom edge finish. Sew all sections together with a large basting stitch.
When you are happy with the fit pull out the basting stitches and use your trial fabric as a pattern and to determine your exact fabric requirements. Stitch your decorator fabric with short stitches and a strong polyester thread, inserting piping or top stitching seams as you go. Neaten all seams with a zigzag or overcast stitch and the slip cover will continue to wash and wear for years. Keep your trial fabric pattern for when your cover wears out or when you just need a change of colour and style. |
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Place the cover, wrong side facing out, onto the chair. On curved areas, such as arms it will be necessary to take out excess fullness. You can do this with gathers or pleats. (see diagram 10 to left)