SEW UNIQUE - Topstitched Reversible Vest and Jacket
Topstitching has always been my favorite form of embellishment and I find a place for it on almost everything I sew, from casual to evening wear. I feel that there is no better way to add finish, function and definition to seams and garment features like collars, cuffs, plackets, pockets or hems.
Pattern Suggestion - Marcy Tilton Vogue pattern 7746 Vest and Jacket
The superb reversible vest and jacket pictured here have been created with two layers of light weight silk sandwiching fine cotton tailor’s flannel or lightweight polyester wadding (interlining) with row upon row of parallel topstitching, called Channel stitching. This not only turns two blouse weight fabrics into a superb summer weight vest or jacket but adds strength, a little warmth and creative character to the garment. The wadding and quilting rows also make the two silks ‘crushproof’ and turn them into the perfect travel piece.
When ever you consider lining a garment, consider it’s suitability for being made reversible. Study the pattern catalogues as some patterns are already designed to be reversible and of course it is possible to adapt many other patterns for reversible sewing. Simple, unstructured garments, like this Marcy Tilton Vogue pattern 7746, are the easiest but almost any style can be successful, with thought and pre-planning.
Tips for reversible clothing success
- Preshrink both fabrics and interlining to eliminate different rates of shrinkage after construction. Fabrics should be compatible in weight, fibre content and care requirements.
- When adapting your pattern for reversible sewing trim all bottom and sleeve hem allowances to 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance. Make sure finished hem levels are correct because length can not be altered once the garment is sewn together.
- Cut both fabrics and interlining at the same time to ensure each side is identical.
- Either thread bobbin and upper spool in reverse colour match or use clear nylon thread throughout.
- Baste the wadding to the wrong side of each piece, on one colour only. Staystitch around all outer edges, on seam allowance and trim the interlining, in the seam allowance, back to the stitching.
- Sew each coloured garment separately. Bodice details, insert sleeves and attach single collar. Leave side and underarm sleeve seams unstitched.
- Place the two garments, right sides together and stitch together around outer edges of bodice, sleeve and hem vents and collar.
- Turn the garment to the right side.
- Press well. Edge seams should not roll to either side.
- Baste all layers together. Start by catching armholes, shoulder and collar seams together.
- Edgestitch and topstitch all outer edges.
- Following photos, for inspiration, quilt through all layers with parallel rows of Channel stitching.
- Complete side and underarm seams with an encased ‘Run & Fell’ seam.
- The button / loop closure is ideal for a reversible garment because you can just sew buttons on both sides and the loop on one side.
- If pockets are required, topstitch and Channel quilt patch pockets separately and apply by hand slipstitching, to jacket, after jacket has been completed.
Stitch Types
Topstitching – Machine stitches sewn from the right side of a garment for decorative or functional reasons. Sew 6mm (1/4”) parallel to the edge or seam.
Edgestitch – As above. Sew 2mm (1/16”) parallel to the edge or seam. Topstitching and edgestitching can be combined for a casual, sporty finish and to add strength.
Channel Stitch – Multiple parallel rows of topstitching, sewn by machine.
Saddle Stitching – Hand-stitched version of topstitching. Use topstitching thread or buttonhole twist for a more pronounced look and sew continuous running stitches, evenly spaced and at least 6mm (1/4”) long.
TIP BOX: When sewing parallel rows of Channel stitching, stitch rows in alternate directions and steam press regularly.
When topstitching either side of a seam, stitch both rows in the same direction.
Stitch Details
Stitch Length – A longer than normal stitch length is usually used but this is a personal preference. Variations in finished look can easily be made by changing the stitch length, the thread colour and type, the number of rows of stitching and the space between rows.
*But remember that the more rows of stitching, the stiffer the fabric will feel.
Foot Facts – Edgestitch Foot
An Edgestitch Foot has a blade which acts as a guide when stitching along an edge – as when attaching a pocket or edgestitching a collar, or when adding decorative or reinforcing stitching to a seam. The guide is shorter allowing greater maneuverability when stitching curved edges and provides more contact with the fabric which is especially helpful when working with lightweight fabrics.
Thread
Most topstitching is sewn with the same thread that you use to construct the garment. However if you want to make your stitching a stand-out design feature use a contrasting colour in a thicker thread like a buttonhole twist or use two strands of your regular thread. Many sewing machines have two spindles for this purpose. However if your machine only has one spindle simply wind some thread onto a bobbin and place it on the spindle, under the regular reel of thread. Then simply thread both threads simultaneously.
Needles
Your needle should initially be selected to compliment the weight and type of fabric but many decorative threads also require a special needle to reduce breakage during sewing. Perfect topstitching is achieved when the thread passes easily through the eye of the needle so that the thread can flow evenly and without restriction.
- Topstitching needles have a larger eye to allow thicker thread to pass through without fraying.
- Machine Embroidery needles are needed for rayon and decorative threads.
- Metafil needles prevent shredding of metallic threads.
- Double and Triple needles can be used to stitch two or three parallel rows at the one time. Remember however that there is still only one bobbin thread and it zigzags between the rows on the underside, making this a ‘one good side only’ alternative.
Guides
Edgestitching and topstitching really only requires the regular sewing foot, a sure hand and a straight eye. But if you feel that you’d like a little more help. All sewing machines now have optional edge and top stitching feet, quilting bars or adjustable seam guides. Utilise the markings on your needle plate and if they aren’t wide enough then make a new marking guide with a piece of coloured sticky tape.
Test Sample
Always stitch a test sample on your actual fashion fabric, with interfacing and / or lining. The stitch length and / or tension may need to be varied to suit that particular thickness and combination. Never crimp your edges with too tight stitching. Reduce the tension if necessary.
Turning corners
To stop fabric pulling down into the hole of the machine plate when you turn a corner, thread a double length of thread on a hand needle and stitch through the point of the corner, leaving the thread tails. After you have pivoted at the corner, with the machine needle still in the work, you simply pull on the thread tails as you sew away from the point.
Finishing
Do not backstitch at the beginning and end of seams. This would create too much stitch bulk. Simply trim the threads off, at the edges that will be incorporated in further cross-seaming or leave the thread tails in areas that will be exposed. Then pull the top thread to the back, tie in a double knot and thread tails into the back of the work with a hand needle. | 
