Sew Inspirational

Learning to Sew – Part 2

Back to Basics by Susan Neall

Sewing IS fun and the secret is easy – take it one step at a time.

Many readers have written to us and asked us to include sewing tips and articles for the beginner, so taking this on board and listening to my very own advice, I decided to take it one step at a time, start from the beginning, and teach someone new to sew along the way.

Last month we found a willing student, bursting at the seams to sew and started. We covered the first four of our initial ‘Ten Things Every Sewer Needs to Know’ –

1. Create a sewing space
2. Learn about the tools of trade
3. Study the pattern catalogues
4. How to buy the right pattern size

This issue we move on to the next step –

Learn what the pattern envelope and instructions can tell you.

The Envelope - Encounter a Wealth of Information

All the major pattern companies provide you with special information to help you achieve the best possible fit and finish. They literally fill the pattern envelope and guide sheets with fitting and sewing information.

Beginning with the back of the pattern envelope, you’ll find the following help:

1. KEY BODY MEASUREMENTS are given for all sizes in which the pattern is available. Find the bust and hip measurements which belong to your pattern size and circle them for quick reference.

NOTE: All major pattern companies supply information in Imperial and Metric measurements.

2. FASHION DESCRIPTION tells you the style of fit you can expect from a particular pattern. Style of fit is something which varies from one pattern to another and from one fashion season to another. At the moment, fashion embraces various types of fit, including fitted, semi-fitted and loosely fitted styles.

“Fitted” means the pattern is designed to follow your body shape very closely and includes a minimum amount of ease. A slender sheath dress falls in this category. Minimum amounts of ease are at least 6cm at the bust, 1cm – 2.5cm at the waist, 5cm – 7.5cm at the hips and 5cm around the upperarm. These amounts are essential facts to remember, as you will see.

“Semi-fitted”, means the silhouette follows your body shape, but not quite as closely as a fitted style. So, these patterns have more than the minimum amounts of ease.

“Loose fitting” or “very loose fitting” describes patterns with a relaxed style of fit. The P.J’s and robe that we are going to make during this series are a good example. Typically the ease designed into this type of pattern measures two or more times the minimum amounts – as much as 25cm – 30cm.

3. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS This feature makes it easy for you to decide, before even purchasing the pattern, how much ease the pattern will actually have on your figure. This section tells you what the garment will measure at key points (the bust and hip) if you sew the pattern as is, right out of the envelope.

Simply subtract: Your body measurements from the finished garment measurements to give you the amount of ease designed into the pattern.

Now you can tell at a glance whether the pattern will have enough extra room, too little or more than you want for your figure at the bust and hips. Not only will this help you decide whether or not to adjust the tissue pattern before you cut, it also offers you the option of selecting a different size from that which you ordinarily wear. This is particularly important if you are looking at a fashion silhouette which is considerably different from what you normally choose.

Just remember the minimum ease you need – at least 6cm at the bust and 5cm – 7.5cm at the hips.

4. FABRICS suggested for the pattern affect ease, too. If the pattern recommends thin, lightweight fabrics and you select a thick, heavy fabric, you’ll use up some of the ease in fabric bulk alone. The pattern may not fit as expected. In a similar way, if a stretch knit is required, don’t try to substitute a woven or a stable knit. To retain the correct amount of ease, select a fabric with the same character as those the envelope lists.

5. NOTIONS (HABERDASHERY) influence the issue of ease as well. When drawstrings or elastic are listed, you know there’s a certain amount of extra room allowed for a self-adjusting fit. Shoulder pads indicate extra room allowed in the pattern shoulder and sleeve cap area; if you omit the pads, you will need to adjust the pattern in both these areas, for a perfect fit.

6. The FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY & ILLUSTRATION on the front of the envelope shows you how the finished garment is designed to look. It’s probably the reason you were attracted to the pattern style in the first place and therefore represents graphically the way you’ll want the garment you sew to fit on your figure.

If you missed Learning to Sew Part 1 click here.